All routes lead to Ghana (Airways)

How discovering a Ghana Airways relic led me on a nostalgic journey.

A few weeks back, I discovered one of the most beautiful graphics. At the time, I was browsing through potential apartment posters when it popped out of nowhere. It had these gorgeous, vibrant verdant hues that popped. If someone asked you to prove a picture is worth a thousand words, I’d cite this piece. In seeing it, a wave of pride, excitement, and awe befell upon me. The graphic in question? A route map cover from the now-defunct Ghana Airways.

The design in question. Thanks to Rachel Cole at Northwestern’s Transportation Library for scanning it in HD!

Ghana Airways was Ghana's state-run carrier. Unfortunately, saddled by high debts, old planes, and corruption, it collapsed in 2004. And as distant as that was, I still remember my yearly trips to Ghana flying with them. I couldn't tell you anything about the in-flight experience nor its interiors, but I do remember how they made me feel. It was a mix of excitement and trepidation holding my mother’s hand as we walked down the HSBC Bank ad-laden jetways at JFK T4 to board that iconic DC-10 jet.

A former Ghana Airways DC-10 (Flickr)

I remember prodding my Mom with “Are we there yet?” as the plane lacked personal TVs. And I remember when, exasperated and relieved, she’d say yes as the jet landed at Kotoka and gracefully made its way to the stand. Passengers clapping to thank the pilots and then rushing to grab their bags while the flight attendants opened the doors. And those final moments as Accra's blustering, humid heat kissed your skin. As you exited the plane, you’d see a large sign across the tarmac that read Akwaaba — welcome.

The Akwaaba welcome sign at the former Terminal 1 (Wikimedia)

That was 2004. Nowadays, the gangways (yes, you used to have to walk down stairs to deplane!) replaced with jetways. The former DC-10 my Mom and I travelled on? It's found a second life as a restaurant feet away from its flying grounds at Kotoka International Airport.

The former Ghana Airways DC-10 now operates as a restaurant nearby (Wikipedia)

Stumbling upon that former route map filled me with nostalgia. It unlocked those vivid memories I had of landing in Accra. The excitement I had to visit my family and celebrate the holidays in my ancestral homeland. The general search for African related posters often harken to zebras and giraffes on a Safari tour and shun the lakes, music, and vibrancy throughout the rest of the continent. In this design, you see references to Ghanaian food, music, and traditions welcoming the viewer to dive into all the nation has to offer. It brings Ghana to the world and offered those who saw it their own path to visit.

It invited the viewer to come dance all night long to the bouncing Afrobeats permeating Osu Street. To indulge in kontomire and waakye made with love at a local restaurant. To explore the variegated and bustling wares in Makola Market. And learn about Ghana's rich history and Kwame Nkrumah’s role in its journey to independence.

It’s a simple piece, and it's perplexed my parents who've heard me incessantly talk about it for weeks. As I try to conclude this, I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about why I’ve been so enthralled by this piece. And as I think about it, it’s the story the piece represents. It immediately conjures the fascination and wonder childhood me felt making the around the world journey to Ghana. Of the quite literal warm memories sweating and acclimating to humid Ghana weather in December. To dancing with friends and family at local parties. And the long drives we made seeing the historical sites across the coast. It fills my heart and reminds me about all the things I love about my ancestral homeland. I can't wait to get a print made for my apartment.